Note for Flat Pattern Making - FPM By Somit Jain

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UNIT 1 Designing Through Flat Pattern Technique Structure 1.0 Introduction 1.1 Pattern making tools 1.2 Terminology 1.3 Materials used 1.4 Basic techniques used in flat pattern designing Learning Objectives After studying this unit, the student will be able to • Know the difference between flat pattern and other methods of making patterns • Understand the importance of flat pattern technique • Gain knowledge about different techniques • Apply to principle in designing new garments Unit Preview This unit deals with various methods of pattern development using different flat pattern techniques along with the importance of dart. It helps the student to gain an insight into the equipment and tools used in flat pattern techniques and methods of manipulating darts using different standard techniques.

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176 Fashion Garment Making 1.0 Introduction Pattern making is one the primary step in developing a garment. It is a highly skilled process that has evolved over a period of time. It had greater importance before industrial revolution where patterns were made by tailors with the personal measurements of the customers for creation of customized garments. After industrial revolution, there was a need for standards patterns for making garments on large scale for the ready-to-wear industry. So the need for standard measurements and standard patterns was huge. Today patterns are being made not only by hand but by using computer using specialized soft ware. Pattern can be made in any of the three major ways-either by drafting, draping fabric on a dress form or by flat pattern designing. Flat pattern method is the technique of developing patterns for varied styles by modifying a basic pattern. 1.1 Pattern Making Tools Pattern making tools are very important to make flaw less working patterns. Proper tools minimize errors in working. These tools help in pattern making, pattern alteration and in pattern grading (Figure 1). Some important pattern making tools are listed below; the detail of each is included in the practical module 1. 1. Straight pins : These should be made steel and of fine quality for easy penetration into the fabric. They help in holding the pattern pieces together and also to pin paper patterns on the fabric before marking and cutting. Pins are also used in draping patterns. 2. Pin holder : It is a devise for holding the pins 3. Scissors paper and fabric: Are used in drafting, cutting and stitching patterns 4. Pencil and pen: Red and blue coloured pencils are used to identify pattern cutting lines and stitching lines on paper patterns. 5. Ruler : Metal rulers are used for straight lines. For measuring curves another ruler called curve rules are used. These are flexible and can be bent while measuring. 6. Push pin : These are of regular size available in different colours for use in pivoting and transferring style lines from muslin to pattern.

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Paper - III Fashion Garment Designing 177 9 3 6 8 11 5 Fig 1.1 7. Notcher : With the help of this tool notches which are ‘V’ shaped cutting are done in the seam allowances. These forms the guide marks when joining parts of the garment. 8. Tracing wheel : This tool has serrated edge which helps to move over pattern markings easily while they are being transferred onto fabric with the help of carbon paper. 9. Measuring tape : This is basically used to take body measurements nad also measure fabric and to mark measurements on the patterns. Fig 1.2

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178 Fashion Garment Making 10. Tailor’s chalk : To draw lines or any markings on fabric tailor’s chalk is used. It is available in various colours and shapes. 11. Hip Curve ruler : A wooden or metal 24 inch ruler that is shaped into a curve at one end. This is majorly used to curve hiplines, hemlines, elbows and lapels. 1.2 Terminology • Basic pattern set : A 5-piece pattern set, consisting of a front/back bodice, skirt, and a long sleeve. It is developed without design features. • Working pattern : It is any pattern that is used as base for manipulation in creating or generating design patterns. Back bodice Front bodice Sleeve Back skirt Front skirt Fig 1.3  Bust point and Apex : A designated place on the bust and pattern. Apex is the highest location of a mound (also referred to as pivotal point in flat pattern making)..